Morocco Rock is a modern rock climbing guidebook designed for all keen trad climbers worldwide seeking a rock climbing trip in the winter sun. The Anti-Atlas is a surprisingly quick to get to region (from Europe) and it is easy to access this mountain environment, which has plenty of adventurous, multi pitch routes, as well as lots of roadside cragging.
First published in 2012, Morocco Rock is the definitive rock climbing guide to the northern side of Jebel el Kest, Jebel Taskra and Aouguenz, all well known by climbers to be the best climbing areas of the Anti-Atlas region. Together with its FREE supplement, this guidebook provides the most up to date information available.
The guidebook (and constantly updated supplement) details almost 2,000 routes in the region, spread over 160 crags in the very heart of Morocco rock climbing. The development of this area is ongoing and very active, and Morocco Rock keeps climbers updated with the most recent developments and latest new routes.
Morocco Rock is the definitive guide and it contains climbs for all abilities. Colourful topos, easy to use maps, descriptive overviews and stunning action. The guidebook is published by Crack Addicts - 2012 Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival Finalists.
Crack Addicts publish guidebooks for rock climbing areas within Morocco and the Anti Atlas. Morocco Rock, along with its FREE Supplement, is the definitive trad climbing guidebook for the northern Jebel el Kest, Jebel Taskra and Aouguenz areas. Over 1,500 rock climbs exist in this beautiful mountain environment and these are documented, along with more than 140 crags, covering all grades from V Diff to E5. The guidebook has full photo diagram topo coverage, detailed maps and overviews, as well as inspiring and mouth watering action shots of the best routes in the region. The guide (and supplement) is available for purchase from this website.
E1 70m *** The unmistakeable man-eating chimney/corner bounding the left side of The North Face gives a memorable experience. Start near the bottom of the descent gully. 1 35m 5a Climb boldly right to a superb flake line which is followed to a stance. 2 35m 5b Ascend the chimney with as much finesse as one can muster (under the circumstances). P Donnithorne, P Johnson (AL) 26.10.08
2 The Beckoning
E3 100m *** The superb slab to the right of Jaws finishing up the obvious wide crack beckoning above. 1 25m 5b Climb up and right to a groove, heading back left to a stance. 2 15m 5b Climb cracks on the left to a ledge. Belay on the right. 3 40m 5c Climb steeply up on the right and go boldly up the slab to a small ledge below a crack. 4 20m 5c Climb the crack and off-width chimney to a ledge. Scramble right and down behind flakes to the abseil point on the terrace. P Donnithorne, P Johnson (AL) 27.10.08
3 Jumping Jack Flash
E1 90m ** A fun route climbing the right-hand side of The Beckoning slab. Start at the bottom right-hand side of the slab at a small tower of blocks with a rose bush at their top. 1 40m 5a From the top of the blocks stand on your second’s shoulder or jump to good holds (hard to flash, Jack). Climb up to a left-trending flake and follow this to climb an obvious crack. Join Rocking The Kasbah and follow this for a short distance to belay in the chimney on top of a chockstone. 2 30m 5b Continue up Rocking the Kasbah for 10 metres, stepping left into the obvious groove in the slab. Follow this to belay at a ledge where the angle eases. 3 20m 5a Climb up the slab to a cracked block overhang. Surmount this and go up to belay at a ledge by a large perched block. Scramble down right behind flakes to the abseil point. P Johnson, P Donnithorne (AL) 3.11.10
Available Now. On purchasing the guidebook through this website, Morocco Rock comes with a free, up to date Supplement for the whole area. Containing over 500 new routes and more than 30 completely new crags, this Supplement is used in conjunction with Morocco Rock and will be emailed as a printable pdf document. It is also possible to purchase this Supplement at a cost of £5.00, if you bought your copy of the guidebook elsewhere.
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Crack Addicts was formed by Emma Alsford and Paul Donnithorne, who have been trad climbing in Britain and all over the world for over 30 years. They first visited the world class traditional rock climbing area around the beautiful Jebel el Kest region in the Moroccan Anti Atlas in 2007 and have developed more than 500 new routes here, as well as over 1,000 new climbs in Britain.
Emma and Paul have been active members of the Climbers Club of Britain for over 25 years and played a major part in the production of the definitive Pembroke series of rock climbing guidebooks. They are also involved with the relatively newly formed “Wired” series of Select guidebooks to Britain, a co-operative group involving the British Mountaineering Council and various other climbing clubs from around the UK.
Crack Addicts are a publishing company producing rock climbing guidebooks for areas worldwide. Our guidebooks are produced using the latest modern publishing techniques to create visually inspiring climbing guidebooks. They use full colour photo diagrams/topos, with accompanying text descriptions, stimulating action photographs and informative, detailed maps in order to land the climber exactly where they want to be – in the heart of the climbing action!